On my recent first trip to New York - in itself rather a surprise for such a world traveller (!) - you'll notice that my list doesn't include some of the must-sees such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Museum of Modern Art, the Guggenheim or the shops such as Saks, Bloomingdales, Bergdorf etc. In this post I have decided to focus on my favourites which were small interesting experiences that can't be gathered while in the enormous 7 building Metropolitan. My favourites in the short time I had in New York seem to be the small museums and spaces.
Oh to have the money that many old New York families had/have but then to do it with such style and such panache for all the world to see - this was the surprise package for me. Between 1902 and 1906 J. P. Morgan (of banking fame) built his private library next to his residence - acquiring illuminated, literary and historical manuscripts, early printed books - including 3 copies of the famed Gutenburg Bible, private letters and original music scripts. It is a treasure trove. What a library. His son J. P. Jr. gifted it as a public institution in 1924. We popped in for a look and stayed an afternoon! We loved everything about it.
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| Stunning Library - books, books, books |
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| Some stored in the vault - look at the bolts on the right |
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| J P himself (sorry so dark - no flash) |
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| The fabulous light and bright modern extension - with New York buildings reflected |
Another surprise. Old money here too - and all gathered in a beautiful mansion on 5th Avenue. We loved the fact that you can still wander the rooms much as they were when Mr (and Mrs) Frick lived there. And what a house. What a life! Mr Frick (1849 - 1919) was a Pittsburg coke and steel industrialist. They lived with paintings by Vermeer, Bellini, El Greco, Goya and Gainsborough - to name just a few - always keeping in mind that the entire collection and the house would be gifted! Although his wealth was extraordinary one could imagine his hosting of regular dinners and wandering the galleries after his guests had departed. Mrs Adelaide (had to include this - the name of my home town) Frick died in 1931 and it was opened to the public in 1935.
Housed
in the New York City mansion built by Henry Clay Frick (1849-1919), one
of America's most successful industrialists, are masterpieces of
Western painting, sculpture, and decorative art, displayed in a serene
and intimate setting. Each of the Collection's sixteen
permanent galleries offers a unique presentation of artworks arranged
for the most part without regard to period or national origin, akin to
the way Mr. Frick enjoyed the art he loved before bequeathing it to the
public.
Both the mansion and the works within it serve as a monument to one of America's greatest art collectors. Built in 1913-14 from designs by the firm Carrère and Hastings, the house is set back from Fifth Avenue by an elevated garden punctuated by three magnificent magnolia trees. Since Mr. Frick's death in 1919,
- See more at: http://www.frick.org/collection/history#sthash.VIdemPH7.dpuf
Both the mansion and the works within it serve as a monument to one of America's greatest art collectors. Built in 1913-14 from designs by the firm Carrère and Hastings, the house is set back from Fifth Avenue by an elevated garden punctuated by three magnificent magnolia trees. Since Mr. Frick's death in 1919,
- See more at: http://www.frick.org/collection/history#sthash.VIdemPH7.dpuf
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| The gorgeous gallery (no photos allowed) www.frick.org |
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| The Fragonard Room (www.statelinesptgds.com) |
Housed
in the New York City mansion built by Henry Clay Frick (1849-1919), one
of America's most successful industrialists, are masterpieces of
Western painting, sculpture, and decorative art, displayed in a serene
and intimate setting. Each of the Collection's sixteen
permanent galleries offers a unique presentation of artworks arranged
for the most part without regard to period or national origin, akin to
the way Mr. Frick enjoyed the art he loved before bequeathing it to the
public.
Both the mansion and the works within it serve as a monument to one of America's greatest art collectors. Built in 1913-14 from designs by the firm Carrère and Hastings, the house is set back from Fifth Avenue by an elevated garden punctuated by three magnificent magnolia trees. Since Mr. Frick's death in 1919,
- See more at: http://www.frick.org/collection/history#sthash.VIdemPH7.dpuf
Both the mansion and the works within it serve as a monument to one of America's greatest art collectors. Built in 1913-14 from designs by the firm Carrère and Hastings, the house is set back from Fifth Avenue by an elevated garden punctuated by three magnificent magnolia trees. Since Mr. Frick's death in 1919,
- See more at: http://www.frick.org/collection/history#sthash.VIdemPH7.dpuf
Housed
in the New York City mansion built by Henry Clay Frick (1849-1919), one
of America's most successful industrialists, are masterpieces of
Western painting, sculpture, and decorative art, displayed in a serene
and intimate setting. Each of the Collection's sixteen
permanent galleries offers a unique presentation of artworks arranged
for the most part without regard to period or national origin, akin to
the way Mr. Frick enjoyed the art he loved before bequeathing it to the
public.
Both the mansion and the works within it serve as a monument to one of America's greatest art collectors. Built in 1913-14 from designs by the firm Carrère and Hastings, the house is set back from Fifth Avenue by an elevated garden punctuated by three magnificent magnolia trees. Since Mr. Frick's death in 1919,
- See more at: http://www.frick.org/collection/history#sthash.VIdemPH7.dpuf
Both the mansion and the works within it serve as a monument to one of America's greatest art collectors. Built in 1913-14 from designs by the firm Carrère and Hastings, the house is set back from Fifth Avenue by an elevated garden punctuated by three magnificent magnolia trees. Since Mr. Frick's death in 1919,
- See more at: http://www.frick.org/collection/history#sthash.VIdemPH7.dpuf
A walk in the park
I mean Central Park of course! I couldn't have imagined that it was so big, green, lush and busy - and yet there were nooks and crannies where one could slip away and spend some quiet time. Still our visit was hardly an amble - unfortunately there was not time for ambling during my stay. We went at - I regret - a relentless pace - in order to 'fit-it-all-in-just-in-case-I-dont-get-back' sort of pace. These lungs of New York have something for everyone. Joggers, walkers, entertainers - it really is an astounding park - and to think it was all 'created'. And it's not being encroached upon by carparks, new footy ovals, overpasses or ringroads. It is revered as we don't seem to be able to do here in Melbourne. For a great read that will bring a lot of the history of the park and the amazing apartment buildings overlooking the park to life I recommend the who-done-it Death Angel by Linda Fairstein (we even met a friend of hers on our speedy amble!)
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| Green green Central Park |
The High Line
What a surprise. To walk along a disused railway line which is now planted with trees, grasses and flowers gave me such a different perspective to New York. It has been an unimagined success. You see the city through different eyes. And it has changed the face of the areas surrounding it. How much more sensible it was that the powers-that-be didn't rip it out and replace it with yet more highrises. I'm sure that it will be copied throughout the world - where old railway lines lie sad and dormant. It has been embraced by New Yorkers and of course by hoards of visitors.
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| Fun seating on the old railway tracks |
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| Fun design, green spaces |
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| Lush along the old railway line - high above the street |
Ground Zero
I want to say that I loved the way the space where the two buildings once stood was done but the word love is so wrong for this site - so I hope you will forgive me. I was totally moved by the absolute simplicity of the 'holes in the ground'. The simplest of simple waterfalls with the water falling into an ever deeper hole - seemed to tell the story. Sometimes we overdo our 'memorials'. Surrounding each 'hole' were the names of all those who had lost their lives on that fateful day. Although I didn't have time to visit the newly opened museum I am glad that I visited the site, and glad in a way that I left with the simplest of reminders of the day that changed our world forever. I'll let my photos do the talking.
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| All is quiet except for the sound of continual cascading water flowing into a darkened hole |
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| Every life lost is engraved to be remembered - the park will be beautiful in years to come |
What a contrast to The Frick and the Morgan Library and Museum, and yet once again a wealthy philanthropist (more on them later) bought the building in 1988 to showcase the living conditions of those who fled Ireland and Europe to find a better life for themselves and their families. The apartment block was built in 1863 and was home to over 7000 immigrants who lived cheek by jowel until it was boarded up in the 1940's. We had recently seen the film The Immigrant (highly recommended) and in some ways it was like walking into that story. The Museum is on 4 levels and each floor showcases the stories of those who passed through the building - from Irish Oursiders to Sweat Shop Workers to Shop Life. It's a timewarp. We toured just two of the floors but each gave us a great overview of the living and working conditions of those who first arrived in the land of hope and plenty.
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| 4 floors up, 4 floors down |
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| Imagine carrying your heavy water bucket up 4 flights of stairs - in the dark! |
And so I conclude as Frank Sinatra sings in what has become the unofficial anthem of the city:
Start spreading the news, I am leaving today.
I want to be a part of it, New York, New York.
These vagabond shoes, are longing to stray
Right through the very heart of it, New York, New York.
I wanna wake up, In that city that doesn't sleep.
And find I'm king of the hill, top of the heap.
These little town blues, are melting away.
I'll make a brand new start of it, in old New York.
If I can make it there,
I'll make it anywhere.
It's up to you, New York, New York.
New York, New York.
I want to wake up, in that city that never sleeps.
And find I'm Aye Number 1, Top of the list, King of the hill, Aye Number 1...
These little town blues, are melting away.
I'm gonna make a brand new start of it,
in old New York, and...
If I can make it there, I'll make it anywhere.
It's up to you, New York, New York!
I want to be a part of it, New York, New York.
These vagabond shoes, are longing to stray
Right through the very heart of it, New York, New York.
I wanna wake up, In that city that doesn't sleep.
And find I'm king of the hill, top of the heap.
These little town blues, are melting away.
I'll make a brand new start of it, in old New York.
If I can make it there,
I'll make it anywhere.
It's up to you, New York, New York.
New York, New York.
I want to wake up, in that city that never sleeps.
And find I'm Aye Number 1, Top of the list, King of the hill, Aye Number 1...
These little town blues, are melting away.
I'm gonna make a brand new start of it,
in old New York, and...
If I can make it there, I'll make it anywhere.
It's up to you, New York, New York!
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