Thursday, 5 December 2013

Serenisima - a love affair!

Welcome to Venice - one of our first views
Venice used to be known as the Most Serene Republic - except for the wars they orchestrated and engaged in - but all is now forgotten except the wars with tourists - after all the Venetians were always one of the world's major traders. 
Cashmere, cashmere, cashmere - shop till you drop with St Mark's Square reflected in the window
Fortunately the tourist numbers mid-November are nothing like those in 'high season' when one wonders how the plumbing works (!), how the locals tolerate the hoards, how the millions of oak and pine piles cope with the footsteps of the 20 million visitors per annum (almost the entire population of Australia!).  To give you an example there are 8-9 piles every square metre of the city - I'll leave you do the sums - but the Santa Maria della Salute church has 1,106,657 wooden piles holding it up! No wonder there are only 60,000 local inhabitants still living there - the rest have fled to the mainland and commute daily to 'serve/service' the hoards. Oh what we do to our dream cities of which Venice is one.
It doesn't matter how many times you see the Grand Canal - it is still stunning
I've just returned from a two week trip to Northern Italy as the result of a trip won on the internet (more on that unsatisfactory experience in a later post). Venice has always been a favourite and I wanted to spend more than a couple of days exploring its labyrinth of alleyways and waterways and to visit the bi-annual Venice Biennale (a huge disappointment - more in a later post). Venice lived up to its memories. We avoided the interiors of churches - a travesty you are probably crying out - but I needed a break from the magnificent paintings of the stories of Christianity in all their gory (not glory). I'm tired of graphic paintings, however magnificent, of the slaugher of the innocents, tired of fire and brimstone, tired of death and destruction. I just wanted to enjoy the beauty of the city. And what a city. And with the lower more manageable tourist numbers at this time of the year we were able to wander where our footsteps led us. 
A quiet back 'canal'
Just another view of paradise from the vaporetto
At the recommendation of a friend we'd specifically chosen a hotel (click here) with views of a canal (not the Grand!) and were often awakened by gondoliers serenading their next load of tourists! It's a rather nice way to welcome the day! I'd been fortunate to stay in a room overlooking the Grand Canal many years ago - if you can afford it - then it can't be beaten - but we enjoyed our little canal when we flung open the windows to welcome the cold morning air! 
O sole mio - from our bedroom window!
On our return to Venice at the end of the trip we were kindly offered a room overlooking the square. Reluctantly we took it thinking we would miss our 'canal view' - but we were 'blown away' when we opened the curtains - just look at the view. It's rather nice going to sleep with cherrubs watching over you! I'll take the cherrub-watching room over a canal backwater next time!
Cupids to watch over you
One of my favourite things to do when travelling is to attend a concert or two or three! There's nothing more exciting than seeing the locals enjoying some wonderful music in amongst the 'tourists'. My favourite website for pre-booking is (I highly recommend it). We chose to see the opera Rigoletto in a private Palazzo on the Grand Canal. Around 50 of us gathered in the faded-glory of the home and we moved from room to room following the abridged version of the opera. Heaven. Memorable. And we shared it with our new French friends who we had had the good fortune to sit next to at a wonderful Vivaldi concert the previous evening. Now that's not a bad way to spend a couple of nights! 
Rigoletto by candlelight

Collapsing fabric on the walls
Just a bit of old ceiling decoration in the Palazzo!!
I had hoped to see an opera at the re-built Teatro La Fenice Opera House (rather well named as it means the Phoenix - rising from the ashes - more than once in its life-time). It was just a hop, step and a short canal swim (!) away from our hotel. I was disappointed there was nothing on during our visit but we had a bonus! 
The foyer of Teatro La Fenice
A view to take your breath away - we were sitting in the first floor box
Taking a self-guided tour around the Opera House we happened to pop into one of the boxes (the Doges box perhaps?!?) and spent the next 2 hours watching a rehearsal of the orchestra and later the singers for the up-coming opera. Now I love a rehearsal - I love watching re-runs as the conductor encourages the orchestra to 'get it right' - and then the bonus of the lead singers going through their roles - what more could a girl want (other than the real thing!) A visit to this Opera House is a must. It was faithfully reconstructed after the fire of 1996 - it took 8 years to complete (read John Behrendt's absolutely fascinating book on the fire and the subsequent scandals - The City of Falling Angels) Unfortunately by reconstructing it faithfully the accoustics are not as they should be on all parts of the stage - when it was originally built it was more important to be 'seen' than to listen to the opera!  Sadly we couldn't take pictures inside or of the rehearsal.
La Fenice canal entrance - seemed to be the 'back door' but wouldn't it be fun to arrive this way
So on that note (!) it's time for you to have a break. Don't worry - there's lots more to come!

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