Old world meets new world - the things we take for granted

I was puzzled by my guides in Myanmar. Sometimes they spoke good English and yet at other times it was totally baffling and I couldn't understand a thing. That was until it was explained to me that they learn to read English but not to speak it. So although my wonderful young guide Ye min at Inle Lake read 600 page English novels voraciously as we swooshed along on the lake (also singing lovely English songs - were they love songs to me?!) his pronunciation of English sometimes left me scratching my head. I'll give you a simple example (although it's hard to explain):

"Here is the eer mumble mumble th" Ye min said.
After many repeats and head scratching from me I asked him to show me what he meant. 

"Ah ha" I said "earth. Now you say earth". 

Ye min replied "eer mumble mumble th". (see why it's hard to explain!). 

Well this went on for 24 hours with him practicing like mad to say earth!! 

Eventually I asked him to say "birth" He replied perfectly "birth". Now say "irth" I said. 

He replied perfectly "Irth - but it is spelt ear..th". (yes it is!) "Oh English is so hard".

Secondhand books, books and more books

Walking through the streets of Yangon I saw many second hand bookstores selling very old English (and other language) novels, school books, magazines and old newspapers etc. It seems that there is a voracious appetite for reading and learning. And then I saw school books being made by hand right on the street. No printing presses or the like. Just a simple collation of (poor) photocopies, hand stitched and bound. 

On the street book making

Sewing and binding the pages

And so to another conundrum!
My guide couldn't understand why I would need a credit card. Travellers are warned that Visa and Mastercard are accepted in very few hotels and shops and there are no ATM's in Myanmar.  Only local currency (kyats) and crisp new US dollars are acceptable. That means one needs to lug small denominations of US$ for all purchases, tips etc. It felt both unsafe and inconvenient. 

My camera needed replacing (certainly not budgeted for in the cash I was carrying!). I hadn't seen the point of taking my smart phone as one can't make international calls to and from Myanmar. But it would have been a great back-up camera! C'est la vie! Ye min generously offered to lend me the money until the next day! How kind but I was stuck of course as I couldn't repay him the next day!! And then his face lit up! (as it often did!) "We have a new ATM in my town and we'll be there tomorrow. We can go there and you can get your money". Imagine my combined relief and trepidation! And so we went on an adventure with my heart in my mouth. Would the card be gobbled up never to be seen again! Ye min and I both entered the sparkling new 3-sides-of-glass stand-alone ATM (no privacy here!).  Surprisingly all went smoothly (with Ye min watching my every move - including my pin number!) and then before you could say 'Jack Robinson' out popped the money with that all familiar burring noise (local currency of course less a large 'commission'). I will never forget Ye min's eyes! They were as large as saucers:

Where was the teller? 

How could that happen? 

How could 'it' count the money that fast (and deduct a fee at the same time!)? 

(rather like a child thinking the newsreader sat behind the TV - way back in the late 50's!) 

"I want one of those credit cards" he said

And then we discussed my Kindle. "Inside this Kindle I have 55 books". 

Eyes wide again - as he turned it over to see where they were!

"I want one of those" he said

"But until you have a credit card you can't buy the books" I replied.
What a catch-22.

And then I explained that by the time I had finished ordering a book on the Kindle it was already downloaded  and my credit card debited from America. It was almost too much.

The eternally happy, learned and helpful Ye min. A great guide (don't look at the food - Western-style with appauling Burma belly results)

And yet he had a smarter smart phone than I did. But only to make local calls. Still I hope it won't take long till they catch up - and probably pass us! But in the meantime it's a great reminder of how easy life is when you have a credit card (too easy sometimes!) and that all the world is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year! 

Turner from the Tate - Downunder!

It's almost as though paintings need to 'earn their keep' these days. They seem to be moved around the world at will - in great secrecy for security reasons - and at great cost! But what opportunities we have when a 'shipment' comes to town. Suddenly the world seems a little smaller and a lot more exciting!

Peace - Burial at Sea - 1842

I popped over to my home town Adelaide recently for a 30th birthday celebration (being more than twice that age I hasten to add, it was sadly not mine!) And the bonus addition to the trip - other than seeing special friends - was a visit to the charming Art Gallery of South Australia which was hosting (is that the word) a marvellous collection of 100 works of art from the Tate Collection of J.M.W. Turner (1775 – 1851), one of Britain's greatest artists. Some of the works have never been previously exhibited.

A disaster at sea

The exhibition closed in Adelaide on 19 May but in true 'earning their keep' it is now on its way to the National Gallery of Australia in Canberra (1 June - 8 September). A timely weekend in Adelaide gave me an opportunity too good to miss. We headed in for a quick overview of the exhibition, before having lunch at the trendy Gallery Cafe and then returning to the exhibition for an indepth look with a Gallery Guide. We didn't miss a thing! His sketchbooks, paints and notes gave it an intimate air.

Venice - The Bridge of Sighs - 1840

I always remember my favourite 'Aunt', who hailed from England, talking about Turner and his skies.  I used to spend time with 'him' in the late 60's (that dates me) at the Tate so it was almost like visiting a friend - albeit with many paintings I hadn't seen before - in Adelaide. His oils were wonderful but it was his watercolours which 'blew me away' this time. They seem to have such spontaneity and a lightness of touch. They were achingly beautiful.

Venice, Moonrise - 1840

Scarborough town and castle: morning: boys catching crabs - 1810

Recently I received a blog on John Singer Sargent watercolours at the Brooklyn Museum . Sargent (1856 – 1925) was an American artist, considered by many to be the leading portrait painter of his generation. The exhibition closes 28 July or you can visit the exhibition in Boston in October. It seems I'm drawn to watercolours in ways that surprise. They have the gentle touch.

Sargent - Venice

If I was to compare the two then Turner wins by a short half head! Well probably a furlong! Do you agree? Whatever you do try to get to Turner in Canberra later in the year. And of course if you're in the States why not visit either Brooklyn or Boston. Aren't we lucky.

Roses are red....

I was fortunate to grow up in a home with a large and wonderful garden - much of it comprising my parents beloved rose gardens. I guess I took both the garden and the roses a little for granted - as you do when growing up - when it just seems to be the 'way it is'. Our home was always filled with large vases of beautifully arranged roses and towards the end of 'rose season' I remember my father raising his eyebrows (bushy) every time my mother said "This is the last of the roses". Somehow we knew that she would always manage to find the odd one or more in the garden for months until rose pruning time. Then it really was 'the last of the roses' for a while.

Heavenly

Spending a weekend recently in the country I was delighted to walk in my friends garden. The roses were blooming, the smells were delicious. It brought back so many memories. I couldn't wait to clip a few stems to bring home to enjoy and reminisce. 

More beautiful

Home grown roses are so much more enjoyable than a bunch purchased from the florist. Firstly they smell! Secondly they aren't tight buds. They have a softness to them that one never seems to get when buying.

In the bucket ready to travel home

What a delight it has been to have them in the house. It's reminded me of the past and how much I should have appreciated 'the last of the roses'.

Soft soft soft

There's something about roses that brings out the romantic in me. Do they do the same for you?

Nature at her best

And who wouldn't want to wake up to this by the bed in the morning - uplifting. Such a great start to the day.

Good morning to you!

 I think I can feel some rose planting coming on!

The stunning Inle Lake

It was the river I had gone to see but it was the lake which captured my heart. 22 kilometres long and half as wide it was a feast for the eyes. The Intha people (lake people) inhabit around 20 villages and there are more than a hundred Buddhist monasteries located around the lake. 

Stilt houses on Inle Lake

Travelling in my own private long boat with just the guide and driver was a privilege. We weaved in and out of the 'roads' at will as we wooshed along the waterways. The 'islands' are in fact floating and are held down with bamboo. So the 'roads' can change and the waterways can get clogged with water hyacinth. There was so much life happening on the lake and in the waterways. At every turn there was a surprise. But a picture can better tell a thousand words - so here we go!

The floating island market gardens held in place with bamboo sticks

Soaping up - and rinsing off - no qualms about the passing crowd!

Overseeing water buffalo enjoying a slosh around in the mud

Scraping past narrow bridges with the mountains in the distance

Sliding past other long boats into the heart of a village

Puttering past daily village life

Or speeding past the odd temple or two or three or ....even more!

The odd shrine (rather like a lighthouse marker on the main 'highway')

Or see a fisherman preparing his net

Or see the unique leg rowers position their boat

There was so much to see on the Lake that I haven't even touched the surface of the wonderful crafts that the locals create. It's time for a break from Myanmar - but I will return for more at some stage....!

Bagan - the city of 2000 +++ temples

One of the highlights of a stop in the World Heritage listed city of Bagan is to see the 'sea' of temples at sunset. Sadly due to a late flight into Bagan I missed it! I must say that I can't believe that the scheduling by the airline/travel company could be so BAD! The problem with flights in Myanmar is that the final internal 'arrangements' are only received on arrival into the country. You are 'in their hands'. So I was 'Not Happy Jan'!

In the late morning light - just imagine how much better at either sunrise or sunset!

Still I consoled myself in the knowledge that I would be taking a balloon flight over the temples in the very very early morning. After a 4.00 am wake-up call (aaagh!) this was then followed up 15 minutes later with another call to say that all balloon flights had been cancelled. There went another - and really - my final opportunity. The chance of a return to see them again is SLIM. Oh the joys of travel! Perhaps the best way to describe what I had missed is to quote from the booklet handed to me on arrival in Myanmar. "Bagan cannot fail to move you. Ask any visitor who has witnessed the sunrise or sunset across these fields of glowing temples." Well don't ask me!

Just one of a thousand clusters

It's sad to see so many of them collapsing, crumbling, disappearing with age and lack of care. But then one must remember that they were built in the 10th-12th Centuries! After a quick 'drive by' and a pleading request to stop so I could at least take some photos of all that I had missed, we spent the morning visiting the golden Shwezigon Pagoda - the most famous pagoda in this World Heritage city. It was  built in 1044-1077.

Shwezigon Pagoda - gold, gold, gold - not bad huh!

Some of the beautiful details

What I love about Pagoda's is not just their beauty but also the life that is happening in the forecourts. It's always busy, with people carrying offerings, listening to a monk 'lecture', having a picnic, being reverent - whatever age (from tiny tots to grandparents and everything in between). There is a sense of peace and calm - no jostling even when crowded. There is great respect. 

A monk addressing his followers

 

Who thank him by giving alms

The nearby Ananda Temple built in the early 11th Century sits in the arid plains. The architect created a white 'snow cave' containing 4 giant buddhas - 9 metres high facing each of the 4 points of the compass. After completing the design he was executed so he couldn't repeat his design! So much for religion!

Approaching the Ananda Temple (though the 'shopping mall'!)

One of the 4 x 9 metre high buddhas (I'd be smiling too dressed in that much gold!)

There's more to come - so until next time.....

Cruising the Ayeyarwady

Myanmar (Burma), Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy), Mandalay, Bagan, Yangon (Rangoon) - the list of exotic names goes on and on. And after years of dreaming suddenly I was on board the 'Road to Mandalay' (take a look here) to bathe in the luxury of a cruise along this famous river. I boarded in Bagan - very late one evening - oh the joys of 'irregular' airline scheduling - Myanmar 'time'. One of the great things about this boat is that there are 4 single cabins (with NO SINGLE SUPPLEMENT). Yes my cabin was small (my friend who had cruised late last year described it as the size of a cupboard - not my choice of words) but it had everything that I could wish for including a comfy bed! And there's nothing quite like a touch of Bvlgari shampoo and body lotion or French Champagne awaiting in the ice bucket to have an immediate impact on a weary traveller. 

River life outside the cabin window (complete with bugs on it - outside!)

I had been warned that the River was low meaning we could not cruise as far as Mandalay. Still it had been my choice to come in March so although disappointing - nature as always - had the last say. The cruise was interesting but I had expected to see more of 'life on the waters-edge' and pagodas and stupas lining the shores. 

Hung out to dry - the laundromat

After all when cruising the Nile there is much activity both on and off the water and magnificent temples to be seen. 

A rare sight - a temple in the distance

The combination of the low water level of the river and the fact that it is prone to flooding means that temporary sites are set up as needs be (rather like a day-at-the-beach).

A temporary 'village' on the river flats

For those who didn't want to just 'loll about' on the upper deck and watch the world go by, or roast their bodies (all shapes and sizes) beside the swimming pool, or drink the local gin, beer or French Champagne, we had the opportunity to learn to cook while cruising along. Well put it this way - we watched our Chef prepare and tasted the results. Myanmar salad and a prawn curry (might try this at home one year!) - both delicious.

Chilli, fish sauce, garlic, garlic and more garlic!

And then of course each night after a choice from the European or Myanmar menu, we could attend a lecture, watch locals making silver jewellery or weaving or even just pop up on deck and marvel as the sun went down.

As the sun sets ...

And then one evening the crew had a special surprise for those who waited up till nightfall around 9.30 p.m. (not everyone!) Thousands - and I mean thousands - of candles floated silently down the river towards us. Tightly packed and taking up the entire expanse of the river it was an awe-inspiring sight. It was such a moving experience that my camera 'blew up'! The silence on board was amazing. So you will just have to imagine it. It was one of those unforgetable moments in time. The piece de resistance! And I missed recording it! (I am waiting hopefully for copies from friends. I will post if they come to hand). 

So until next time when we'll 'get off the boat' and explore the shore!

On the Road to Mandalay

I’ve been wanting to visit Burma (Myanmar as it is now called) for over a decade. For many years I was discouraged from visiting by all and sundry. It was seen as politically incorrect as any money taken into the country would be swallowed up by the ruling Military Junta.

Stupas, Stupas and more Stupas x 2!

After all the 1991 Nobel Peace Prize Winner (finally collected in 2012) Aung San Suu Kyi was under house arrest. On the one hand I agreed and on the other… Well if I had gone even a small amount would have filtered through to the locals who were (and many still are) living in abject poverty. This was a country that 50 years ago was the wealthiest in the region. How can that happen? How can the world let that happen? And yet we did.

A young boy en route to become a novice monk

And so I stayed away until recently but it was always in the back of my mind. It has always been on my ‘places to visit before I die’ list. The Rudyard Kipling song made famous by Australian bass-baritone Peter Dawson of 1929 kept popping into my head. Listen to him singing it here (and the photos are wonderful)

By the old Moulmein Pagoda

Looking eastward to the sea
There’s a Burma girl a settin’
and I know she thinks of me

 

For the wind is in the palm trees
And the temple bells they say
Come you back you British soldier
Come you back to Mandalay, come you back to Mandalay

 

Come you back to Mandalay
Where the old flotilla lay
Can’t you hear their paddles chunking
From Rangoon to Mandalay

 

On the road to Mandalay
Where the flying fishes play
And the Dawn comes up like thunder
out of China ‘cross the bay

 

Ship me somewhere east of Suez
Where the best is like the worst
Where there ain’t no Ten Commandments
And a man can raise a thirst

 

For the Temple Bells are calling
And it’s thee that I would be
By the old Moulmein Pagoda
Looking eastward to the sea

Suddenly the country was opened up to tourists and I took my chance – along with hoards of others. I had no specific reason for ‘a calling to Burma’. After all I had no family connection as many of those I met during my trip had – with their (grand)fathers/ (great)uncles/brothers/cousins etc working (and most not surviving) on the dreaded Thai Burma railway during the 2nd World War.

Nuns with their alms bowls

I’m a short and sweet traveller. No real in-depth, living-with-the-locals for me. I’m renowned for reading about a country I’ve visited on my return home! And yet for Myanmar I prepared! Well sort of! I was surprised to discover that George Orwell (he of 1984 fame) had spent time in Burma (his grandmother lived in Moulmein – mentioned in the song above) as a Policeman from 1922-27. His novel Burmese Days is worth reading. But it was the beautifully written book Finding George Orwell in Burma by Emma Larkin published in 2006 that for me really captured the Burma of today referencing it to Orwell’s 1984.  In my opinion a must-read for all travellers to this country. As are the eloquent writings of the remarkable Aung San Suu Kyi – particularly her Letters from Burma

The Aung San Suu Kyi compound

There was no choice as far as I was concerned about the boat I was to cruise down the Irrawaddy on. The ‘Road to Mandalay‘ – the name says it all – owned by the Orient- Express Company (of Murder on the Orient Express fame!). And so I headed off for my long awaited adventure. And what an adventure it was. 4 nights on the boat, 4 nights on the magnificent and surprising Inle Lake and a couple of nights in the old capital Yangon (Rangoon sounds much more exotic to me – but then I’m an ‘oldie’).

Our boat awaits on the Irrawaddy River

And so in my next Myanmar posts I’ll take you on a Road to Mandalay cruise along the Irrawaddy River, follow this up with my favourite Inle Lake, take a sweep through the Shwegadon Pagoda in Yangon, go on an emergency trip with my guide to an ATM (so rare he had never seen one!) have an English and a Kindle lesson with my guide, stand in awe of 2,000++ Pagodas and Temples in Bagan, visit my 2 favourite monasteries, visit a market or two or three!, meet an American who has interviewed Aung San twice, teach you how to put on Myanmar makeup, see a boys rite of passage to a Buddhist monastery as a novice monk, look at the local handmade artifacts – and probably more! So brace yourself for an onslaught of Myanmar!